b'Dana Bronfman Moving Drop Pendant in 18-karat recycled yellow gold with responsibly sourced malachite, emerald 8 SUSTAINABLEand diamonds ($5,530)part of the solution, not the problem. Today, the design and process of sourcing are intertwined in the story of the piece.De Luca is quick to note that designers have been exploring what are MATERIALS considered non-precious materials for more than 100 years, citing Ren Lalique, the Art Nouveau-era artist who would incorporate elements like wood into his work at the turn of the 20th century, as a reaction to the Aligning with other sectors in the jewelry supply chain,first mass-produced jewelry. There was also Italian jeweler Fulco di Ver-such as the mining, refining, manufacturing, and gemdura, who emigrated to America at the beginning of World War II when cutting industries, for which traceability and sustain- precious materials grew scarce, and began to use shells or vintage ability are becoming increasingly more important,jewelry, essentially recycling the jewelrys original materials. designers also continue to experiment with alternative,Today, more brands than ever are looking for alterna-sustainable materials. tive materials with less of an environmental impact than Vogue Italias American jewelry designtraditional ones.showcase has transformed into a call to con- Rough diamonds with lots of inclusions and many temporary designers to broaden their sourcingstones, like malachite, were not appreciated in the past, materials and use non-traditional items, likesays De Luca. It was only flawless gemstones and diamonds; tagua nut as an ivory substitute.everything should be the same. Now, designers are using these A number of brands like Dana Bronfman,materials for a more sustainable and ethical approach to the AnaKatarina Fine Jewelry and Yael Sonia arentenvironment and life.sacrificing style for eco-responsibility; insteadThe trend forecaster says this reflects a cultural embrace of theyre letting their imaginations run wild by searchingimperfection and uniqueness, too. for unexpected resources.Its like imperfection becomes perfection and flaws be- come uniqueness and beauty. Even models now, theyre Jewelry clients are becoming more and more informed about the eth-ical and sustainable origins of the materials used in jewelry, says Ana-Ka- not so perfect. Theyre a little off. A little off makes tarina Vinkler-Petrovic.it interesting. Thats a big revolution in society They are conscious of the impact of their purchasing and want to bethat translates, inevitably, to jewelry. IMPERFECTION9 WHATS OLDDudley Van Dyke Gustav BECOMES PERFECTION AND FLAWS BECOMEIS NEW Jade Fob in 14-karat yellow UNIQUENESS ANDgold with jade ($7,200) on BEAUTY. EVENThe line that divides the sale ofOpen Link Double Albert Chain in 14-karat yellow MODELS NOW,antique and vintage jewelry from newgold ($4,040)THEYREA LITTLEdesigns is blurring. Many more retailers are selling both, due to consumer demand and a large supply.OFF. A LITTLEBarneys New York now stocks works from Stephanie OFF MAKES ITWindsor Antiques while Fred Leighton sells on Net-INTERESTING. THATSa-Porter. As a result, the interest in antique jewelry A BIG REVOLUTIONshows is exploding among jewelers.Other designers are also repurposing vintage IN SOCIETY THATpieces, just as Verdura sometimes re-worked TRANSLATES,them into something new. Theres a growing INEVITABLY, TOmovement, typified by brands such as JEWELRY. Toni + Chlo Goutal and Min-di Mond, of sourcing antiquePAOLA DE LUCA,pieces, refurbishing them, and CEO OF THEreworking them to FUTURIST create new jewelry art, breathing modernity into old items from the jewelry box. Ashley Zhangs MirabeauAs sustainability rises, so will this trend.Engagement Ring in 14-karat rose gold and platinum with a 1.65-carat diamond (price available upon request) NATIONAL JEWELER 29'