NATIONAL JEWELER 41 When jewelers talk about this, it often sounds like they’re de- scribing a marriage. Attraction is a good start, but then it’s all about transparency, reliability and common goals. PERFECT PARTNERS “A good supplier is someone who sees herself or himself as a partner in our business and our future,” says Lisa Bridge, president of Ben Bridge Jeweler and fifth generation of the Seattle-based family business, which has more than 100 stores. She and her staff look for suppliers who share their expectations of quality, from stones to finishing. “We’ve worked before with people we like and who have beautiful designs,” Bridge says. “But we found if that understanding of quality doesn’t come naturally to them, it just doesn’t work.” Her team recently made a video celebrating a supplier’s 40th year in business and showed it at the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show in March. “We were one of its earliest buyers and they were saying how appre- ciative they are of our long-term relationship,” Bridge says. “It works in both directions.” What makes this vendor the perfect part- ner? Consistent supply and quality, she says, coupled with the respect and transparency embedded in a relationship built over time. “It really epitomizes what we look for in a supplier,” Bridge says. “Somebody who sees the vision and wants to be part of our success; who understands our expectations in terms of quality, delivery and pricing; who wants to have a conversation and work through chal- lenges together.” RETAILER EXPECTATIONS What can suppliers do to help retailers sell their product? “They [can] do everything they say they’re going to do,” says Philadelphia jeweler Steven Singer. “And I’ll have confidence that every- thing is what they say it is—ethically sourced with proper carat weight. We test samples be- cause we want to keep honest people honest, but we have a responsibility to our customers. Any time [suppliers] don’t live up to their promises and we feel it’s not human error, we say ‘thanks, see you later.’ We’re done. Because there is no product you can’t get somewhere else.” Retailers who sell designer jewelry say having the designers talk to staff is vitally important, too. “To become successful, designers have to win the hearts and minds of our people,” Bridge says. “They can have the most beautiful mer- chandise out there, but if our associates don’t understand or believe in it, they’re not going to sell it.” Successful retailers today also do a lot of online marketing. That requires killer images, and lots of them. Green says great photography is imperative but, unfortunately, not a lot of vendors have it. Exceptions include David Yurman, Ippol- ita, John Hardy and Marco Bicego, which is great for Lux Bond & Green’s social media as well as the retailer’s website. He says the chain has to send jewelry out almost every week to have it reshot professionally, which is time-consuming and expensive, and a mark against suppliers. “We have no choice, because the website is the No. 1 marketing tool of a company today,” Green says. Owners of smaller, independent designer galleries appreciate help above and beyond photos. “Supplied photography is great but co-op dollars are even more important,” says Matina Williams, co-owner of Be On Park in Winter Park, Florida. “If we want to run a magazine ad or a billboard and we have a designer who is willing to do it with us, that’s very helpful.” KEEPING SUPPLIERS HAPPY Along with paying bills on time, successful retailers strive to be responsive and transparent. For a boutique retailer like Be On Park, this means every mem- ber of the store’s staff of 10 (13 including the owners) knows exactly what’s coming in and going out at all times. Be On Park deals with a lot of goods on memo. This works because much of the jewelry is unique and handmade, and the staff responds quickly. “If we’re working with a customer and they request something we don’t have, our designers are good about sending in something for us to show them,” Williams says. “Likewise, if a designer calls us at 4 to say they need a piece back, we get it to them. If we’ve sold a piece, we report that and pay them.” Green puts a lot of stock in face-to-face contact with valued suppliers. He brings vendors into his stores once a year to talk to sales staff and goes out of his way to meet with them in person, even when he’s not buying: “I go to more trade shows than I should,” he confesses. He talks to suppliers about new work, quality and manufacturing, but also about what’s helping their sales with other jewelers, includ- ing social media best practices. “Supplied photography is great but co-op dollars are even more important. If we want to run a magazine ad or a billboard and we have a designer who is willing to do it with us, that’s very helpful.” – Matina Williams, Be On Park