that almost a third of a parcel of melee screened using its Diamond Analysis Service were undisclosed lab-grown diamonds. Put another way, 101 out of the 323 diamonds were man-made. Another equipment maker, Hong Kong-headquartered Diamond Services, recently announced its New York lab had detected multi- ple single-cut lab-grown diamonds sized from 0.0025-0.005 carats mounted in jewelry. (Single-cut stones have 16 to 18 facets, compared with the 57 or 58 facets of a full-cut stone.) “To the best of my knowledge, this is the first time that a synthetic single-cut stone has been detected mounted in jewelry,” Joseph Kuzi, Diamond Services founder and managing director, said in a press release. “What this means is that almost no diamond can be taken at face value.” A CAUSE FOR OPTIMISM While the number of undisclosed lab-grown diamonds being dis- covered is disquieting, the industry seems to be taking the right steps to make sure consumers get the products they want, which might mean lab-grown rather than mined diamonds. According to Moses, the use of lab-grown diamonds and their marketing to consumers makes accurate identification and disclosure even more important so buyers can make an informed decision about their choices. Jonathan Kendall agrees. “With this also comes the added pres- sure of consumers becoming more aware on the topic of undis- closed synthetics. That’s why testing is so important—it becomes a valuable tool for any business to be able to provide that level of assurance and confidence. With millennials increasingly demand- ing greater levels of product information, the need to provide this guarantee will only increase.” One country taking the need for guarantees further is India. The chairman of the country’s Gem and Jewellery Export Promo- tion Council (GJEPC), Praveenshankar Pandya, recently announced the establishment of an “International Diamond Monitoring Commit- tee” to eliminate supply chain infiltration of undisclosed lab-grown dia- monds.The GJEPC said it will offer to pay half of the cost of detection machines for its members to help cut down on the number of undis- closed man-made stones traveling further down the pipeline. While there is no way to prevent every single undisclosed lab- grown diamond from entering the pipeline, the fact so many busi- nesses are investing in detection machinery is a cause for optimism. But, it is important not to get complacent. The battle against undisclosed man-made diamonds will continue to be waged as long as diamond-makers find new ways to improve production and unscru- pulous players insist on compromising the integrity of the industry. What It Screens For Price Speed Identifies diamonds grown using the HPHT and CVD processes. No further testing is required. $11,999 Not automated Identifies diamonds grown using the HPHT and CVD processes. Some accept the result as definitive; others opt to have a third party test the stones. $20,999 45 seconds to scan a 250mm x 250mm area of jewelry Identifies diamonds grown using the HPHT and CVD processes. Stones flagged as potentially man-made should be sent to a lab for further testing. $4,995 Probe gives results of individual stone within 2 seconds Distinguishes stones that are not lab-grown and have not been HPHT color-enhanced from stones that are potentially lab-grown or color-enhanced. No further testing is required. N/A +/- 200 stones/hour Identifies natural diamonds, potentially lab-grown/HPHT color-treated diamonds, and simulants. N/A 3 stones /second, or 11,000 stones/hour Identifies diamonds grown using the HPHT and CVD processes. Refers all lab-grown diamonds and diamond simulants for further testing; rate of referral of natural diamonds is less than 1 percent.   $45,000 Up to 3,600 stones/hour Identifies diamonds grown using the HPHT process. Potential lab- grown stones must be submitted for further testing and verification. $4,500 Not automated Checks for natural stones, which means it has a lower referral rate (about 0.05 percent) than other machines. $16,250 Not automated NATIONAL JEWELER 49